Andrew McConnell’s Golden Fields opens on Fitzroy St, St Kilda

Andrew McConnell’s Golden Fields opens on Fitzroy St, St Kilda

It’s been open a couple of weeks now, and I managed to drop in before a gig at the Palais. Golden Fields is McConnell’s latest outpost – it’s pretty much a reinterpretation of Cumulus, with a Chinese twist. In fact, it’s so close to Cumulus I feel a little deflated.

The food is great and the service sparkling, but it is a little too similar to what has come before it.

The menu borrows some of the very best from Cumulus and Cutler & Co. The lamb shoulder appears similar though it is spiced with cumin seeds (though I didn’t actually try it). The pork buns are straight off the Cutler bar menu, they are as amazing as ever and the fried prawns and pork tail are very similar to a blend of 2 Cumulus dishes that have since been retired. The similarities don’t end there, the interior design is straight from the same playbook: white tiles, big bars, open kitchens and coat hooks. It’s good but not ground breaking.

The menu works well, as you’d expect. The feature of McConnell’s cooking and menu construction is that each dish is simple yet effective. The way you order a variety of dishes builds all the complexity you want. The beef belly and rump was brilliant, subtle flavours and awesome textures. The shredded cabbage and Moreton Bay bug salad is so simple it’s brilliant.

Don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed it, the food rocks and I’ll be back. I’d suggest that the menu will evolve and grow into its own skin. I hope next time, I won’t just be thinking how much like Cumulus it is.

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3 Responses to “Andrew McConnell’s Golden Fields opens on Fitzroy St, St Kilda”

  1. Mr Helpfull commented:

    Where’s all that Chinese inspired grub we were all reading about prior to the opening?

  2. Steve commented:

    It’s nice to see movement on the restaurant scene South of the river. The Northside has been the side to be for a while now. Golden Fields will do wonders for Fitzroy Street. Hopefully with Geoff Lindsay in Elwood and the Newmarket garnering some great reviews there’s more to come.

  3. Paul Jewson’s Fitzrovia opens in St Kilda commented:

    […] into the beautifully rendered Fitzrovia. At 155 Fitzroy St, it’s just near the newly opened Golden Fields, Baker d Chirico and Miss Jackson in what’s becoming a fine-food […]